RE:  If the road is very hot pavement, it would be best to try to avoid it.  Even with their thick padded feet, I would assume that really hot blacktop pavement would be quite uncomfortable.  I don't know of any boots or shoes, but it may be a good idea.  Maybe you could work up something for their feet.

RE: Not that I've ever heard of.  Even if there was, it probably wouldn't help the front teeth anyway - just the back molars.  In my experience, it seems as if they have a good bite to begin with, the teeth don't seem to get too bad in their older years.

QUESTION: I would like to know if you know of anyone that has used diatomaceous earth with llamas as a parasite control. Here's website information. http://www.hydromall.com/happy_grower16.html Thank you. Judy

RE: I keep DE on hand, but I have not tried adding it to the llamas' feed. I've heard of doing that, and it does sound quite harmless to them - I just don't know of any personal vet recommendations. In the summer I sprinkle it over the manure daily in the spreader and use it as a fly control. We don't keep an actual manure pile and spread it into a field regularly, but I figure it helps out in the field as well as in the spreader by the barn.

QUESTION: I am currently considering purchasing 2 male llamas for guard use in my cow/calf operation. I feed my cows sudan grass in the winter. Is this poison to a llama? Thank you.

RE: It may not be the safest possible feed for llamas. After some research on Sudan Grass, I would highly recommend that you check with your local veterinarian and your county extension agent before feeding it to your new llamas. It is listed on some poisonous plant lists and has been known to affect cattle, sheep, and horses. You can read more about it at http://www.gov.on.ca/OMAFRA/english/crops/facts/98-043.htm. Also check other sites on Sudan Grass and various poisonous plant lists.

QUESTION: Thanks for your great website! I have a cria that was born the end of April. Now at six months old, she is still nursing and the mom seems to let her when she "wants to" which seems to be getting less and less. Do I just let the mom handle this weaning issue or do I need to assist in some way? If I should help when would that be appropriate? The cria is eating grass and hay all day but will not eat creep feed at all.Thanks so much for your help with this question. Tarre

RE: It isn't actually necessary to wean the cria unless the Mom is showing signs of getting run down or thin due to milking. Or if the cria is a male, you may need to wean him at 6 or 7 months in order to separate him away from the females. If you have a female cria in with your herd and Mom is in a good healthy condition, it would be perfectly OK to leave Mom & daughter together until Mom decides it's time to wean her off. This will usually take place somewhere around 7 months of age. Letting Mom make the decision is far more stress-free for both of them. Having to intervene and separate Mom & cria is one of the hardest herd management jobs there is! It's actually less stress for all if you move Mom to another pasture, out of sight, and leave the cria in familiar surroundings with the rest of the herd.

QUESTION: My male llama... nine months old.... is acting very lethargic....he is laying down alot...should I be overly alarmed? Should I get a vet out here immediately? Should I sand blast him? He trys his best to get to the buckwheat formula I give my horses... it is so strange..the horses want the llama food and the llamas want the horse food. Thanks for any suggestions. Nancy in Florida.

RE: Any type of unusual behavior is an indication of a problem with your llama. Hard to say whether he is sick or not, but he definitely sounds like he is uncomfortable for some reason. Could it be heat stress - since it is that time of year - and you are in Florida? Are you aware of the problems, signs, and preventions of heat stress? Have you taken his temperature? If there is nothing that is obvious to you, perhaps you should have your vet take a look at him.

QUESTION: We give our llamas a flake of alfalfa hay & 1/3 pound of Mazuri sweet feed each daily in the winter. Are we overfeeding? Minerals are also available. Bob.

RE: I'm sure your llamas love their winter diet and they are probably doing just fine - they all love alfalfa and sweet feed. However, both of those items can possibly put on alot of un-needed weight. A good grass hay of about 10-12% protein is usually recommended for llamas. Your concern for over-feeding can only be confirmed by how much weight your llamas are carrying. You should be able to feel their backbone and their ribs easily and also see a generous space in between their rear legs for them to be well fit. Your feeding program should be geared to the area of the country you live in and what types of vitamins and minerals need to be supplemented in your area. As a very general guideline, it is suggested that a llama will eat a square bale of hay in seven days when not on pasture and also should be offered about one pound of a llama feed daily - maybe only 3/4 pound for males and geldings. Also a free choice llama trace mineral mix. A good year round nutritional program is the most important foundation for all health care. It is often said that the most common form of malnutrition in llamas is obesity. And it's alot easier to keep them thin than to try to take weight off of them.

QUESTION: Hello. I just wanted to say thank you for the information on Meningal Worm, it was very helpful. It was probably evident that I was panicked. After my Vet and I read it, we both understood a little more then we already had. My llama is doing much better. He is still somewhat weak, but he is eating well, and is back outside with the rest of the herd, almost acting like himself. Although, his feet are still swollen, he is up, eating, SPITTING (I was so happy when I saw him spit at one of the other llamas) and acting pretty much like himself again. I did e-mail Dr. Anderson to see if he could give me any advise regarding his feet. My only advise is know what your llamas behavior is, and if any change, have them checked. I think in our case we caught it early enough, but I am glad we didn't wait to start treatment. I really don't think the outcome would have been as good. Please don't ever stop your website, I would be lost. Our vet is wonderful, but sometimes a second opinion is helpful. Thank you again. Lynn. 

RE: So glad to hear that your llama is feeling better! Your advise is excellent !!! Know your llama! If you think something is wrong, it probably is. They are so stoic that by the time you're aware something is wrong, it's usually time to take action. Your llama is lucky that he has such a good owner to care for him! Thank you for letting us know the positive outcome.

QUESTION: Hello. I have been raising llamas for about 7 years, and one of my males has been diagnosed with meningal. I noticed a change in his disposition about 3 weeks ago. I can only describe him as quiet and layed back. More then usual. Last night He came into the barn and I thought he was kushing, which is very unusual for him. Then I noticed he was having trouble getting up. He did get up by himself, but was very unsteady and weak, especially his rear legs. Then he went into his area and layed down again. I immediately thought Meningal and called our vet. He told me to give him penicillin, possibly it was a foot infection, and ivermectin at 1/2 his monthly dose. I have always thought that the ivermec needed to be increased substantially to approximately 4CC per 100 lb. I gave him the penicillin he advised, but my gut feeling was that the ivermec dose should be increased not decreased. I increased it to the dosage of 4cc per 100. The vet came to the barn today, and agreed that it is Meningal. The left side of his face had also dropped. While he was there we did the DMSO and cortisone IV. I did agree with that. He advised me to give 3cc of banamine 2 times a day, and again 1/2 his regular dose of ivermectin once a day for 5 days. His explaination was that there could be some toxicity from all the ivermectin. Have you heard of this? We have worked together with my llamas for 7 years, and at times he has asked my advise about them. He said that was his advise, but that he also valued my opinion. Can you please give me any advise. My biggest fear has been meningal. How long should his recovery take, or atleast improvement. He is still able to get up, but with difficulty, and is very weak in the rear. Please let me know anything at all that might help, and about the dosage of the ivermectin. Thank you very much. Lynn. 

RE: M-Worm is certainly a scarey thing to discover. Treatment can be successful when it is diagnosed early and treatment started immediately. There is a good article Here describing treatment and therapy that you might share with your vet. Or ask him to personally call and consult with one of the nationally known llama vets who have had alot of experience in this area to assure maximum treatment is being administered. (or you can call yourself). Good luck with your treatments.

QUESTION: My llama is experiencing hair loss. The hair is coming out in clumps. The neck is the most obvious area. I cannot visually see any parasites. Are there other reasons for hair loss? She had a cria in May. She has not been bred back. Could hormonal levels attribute to hair loss? I am concerned as the winter approaches.
From hawkmo@ibm.net

RE: Hair loss, or alopecia, can possibly be a variety of things. If she is losing her neck wool, she may be a short woolled animal who will sometimes lose alot of head and neck wool when older. It also could be a "wool break" most commonly thought to be a result of some kind of stress. Alot of the time, this type of break starts on the neck and just leaves a type of stripe of short wool up the entire back of the neck. The break may stop with this or the animal may continue to lose wool all over its body leaving only about one inch left. Usually you can trace this type of break back to a possible stress about 3-6 months previous. It could be heat, weaning, training, showing, moving to a new home, and yes, even becoming a mother. The stress causes a weakness in the fiber and when it grows out, it just pulls off by the handfuls. Yes, it will grow back.
Parasites, mites or lice, can also cause hair loss, but you would probably be able to see them upon a careful check and you also might see some flaking or leathery skin.
Another reason for wool loss can be nutrition - most likely a zinc deficiency. This can be checked by a complete blood chemistry. She'll probably be fine for winter unless the weather is really severe - alot of short wool llamas have no problems with cold weather. And the wool loss will not effect breeding her back.

QUESTION: I have a 2-llama backyard "ranch" with my boys bought primarily for the purpose of packing and general enjoyment. Both are 3+ years old. Monty has developed pathological stretching of the middle patella ligament with subacute upward displacement of the patella in the right hind leg (his knee moves upward too far on some strides, then pops back into position). This was diagnosed by Dr. Sarel Van Amstel at University of Tennessee Veterinary School. If it is not treated, I cannot continue to use him for packing, and must somehow find a way to retire my pet to pasture (all kinds of emotional, logistical, and financial complications here).
Dr. Van Amstel has suggested trying a procedure that is used successfully on horses to allow them to go back to work after suffering this type of injury. This is injection of an iodine solution into the middle patella ligament to facilitate fibrosis and shorting of the ligament. He and I are both researching any application of this to llamas.
Has anyone out there used this procedure on llamas? If so, what is the recommended dosage (in horses 5cc is used, about half that has been suggested for my llama)? What is the success rate? What are the potential complications and how often do they tend to occur? Any information you have would be most welcome. Veterinarians with specific experience with the problem, this treatment, or other potential treatments can also call Dr. Van Amstel directly at 423-974-5701. Thanks in advance for any information that you can provide. Susan

RE: ?

QUESTION: How old can you expect to start using a male for breeding? Audrey

RE: The most common age that a male is able to breed is generally around the age of two years. However, some do start as early as 18-19 months and others as late as three years, sometimes even four years but that is a little unusual. There are also stories of a surprise pregnancy from males less than a year old, but that too is very uncommon. Most breeders remove their young males from the females before the age of one year just to be sure.

QUESTION: I am looking to purchase fainting goats. I have a herd of llamas and I want to put the goats in with the female llamas. Will this cause a problem? Christine 

RE: The addition of the goats into the llama's area will probably cause a temporary upset. It seems when smaller, unfamiliar animals are introduced, such as miniature donkeys, goats, or a turkey even, the llamas are frightened and you will probably witness alot of alarm calls. If you could put the goats in an adjoining pasture for a week or so before putting them together, they would probably accept each other easier. The only other problem could be with the habits of the goats as they tend to be assertive and hog all the feed dishes. 

QUESTION: I heard somewhere that the spit from a llama is hurtful or poisonous. Is this a rumor or partially true? Lisa

RE: The only hurtful part about it is that it hurts your ego!! Most llamas do not aim and spit directly at you unless they have been mistreated in a petting zoo or some kind of confinement where they have learned to mistrust. They do spit at each other occasionally - especially to show dominance at feeding time. Sometimes it is just a wet spray in the air, kind of like a warning. When really agitated, the spit is regurgitated chewed grass .... wet, and green with an unpleasant odor. Since they do not bite, spitting is a means of defense and the unusual tactic does scare off some predators. It's alot less painful than a dog bite!

QUESTION: I have a 19 month old maiden female llama who has had recurrent vaginal infections that cultured out as e.coli. I was wondering if anyone else has seen this and can give me any advice on how to prevent this from happening again. Thanks. Jackie

RE: I've heard that some females can have what is called a "shelf" placement of their labia, which enables poop to fall onto the opening, potentially causing vaginal e. coli infection. This is considered an undesireable conformational fault. You should observe your llama when she is defecating and see if she is consistently getting the poop away from her body or if it is falling onto her labia. I don't know how to deal with this, if indeed it is the cause of your problem. Good luck.
Susan Gawarecki

QUESTION: I am a new llama owner. I have been given two llamas. They are 8 years old. One of my llamas has what look to be hair-like worms moving around between his eye and eye lid. Do you think they are worms or maggots? What would be the best treatment for this condition? Vince 

RE: Eyeworms: The most likely cause of hair-like worms inside the eyelids is the nematode, Thelazia Californiensis. It is transmitted from animal to animal by flies. Treatment is either by manual removal or you can have your veterinarian make up some eyedrops out of ivermectin to administer to the eye.  Sam D. Meisler DVM

QUESTION: I live on a farm in south Texas. Is the weather too hot for llamas? Betty 

RE: There are quite a few breeders in Texas that successfully raise and keep llamas. Although hot weather is definitely a concern, there are extra methods that maybe farms in the south utilize for the heat. Some have misters and also completely shear the animals in the summer. Definitely fans --- and more fans! Some investigation would be helpful. Hopefully, we'll get some more opinions on this subject.

QUESTION: What kind of market is there? Can one only supplement income or can one derive a living from llama farming? Thank you.Betty

RE: Llama prices seem to be holding well the past three years or so. If anything, there seems to be an increased interest this past year, more activity, and slightly higher prices. As with any other business, you'll have to have enthusiasm and do a little marketing - the world will not beat a path to your door. Raising llamas can be a very nice supplemental income. There are also many who have it as their only business and make a nice living. Besides just breeding and raising llamas, there are many other aspects that owners have taken advantage of such as offering hikes and lllama treks, Bed & Breakfast with llamas, llamas that go to parties and public functions, renting llamas as golf caddies to the local golf course, spinning, weaving and felting with their wool, boarding other's llamas, or doing llama arts and crafts. Create a children's program taking a nice, friendly llama, llama stories, and llama puppets. A little enthusiasm, creativity, and marketing and you're on your way to a hard-to-beat involvement and lifestyle. However, the committment and responsibility to these wonderful creatures is not to be taken lightly before you jump in. Although they are easy keepers, you must pursue the opportunity to learn about their care for your area.

QUESTION: I have tried to desensitize this 7 year old llama to let me lift his feet. His front toenails are now quite long and I have still not been able to lift and trim. Unfortunately, we do not have any veterinarians locally who know how to treat llamas. Any suggestions? Barbara

RE: Proper nail trimming is quite important for your llama. If you do not have a chute available, tie him to an inside corner with only about an 18" length to his halter so he can't travel too far. Some owners have been successful using their trailer as a restraining area also. For the front leg, stand beside the llama facing towards his rear, work your way down his leg slowly by touching and using calming voice commands. My most helpful hint is to bend way over and pick the leg up and hold it low to the ground rather than bringing the leg up to you. And make sure you are bending the llama's leg in the normal direction that it bends - not too high or out to the side (ouch). Relax the leg in the palm of your hand and you will feel the llama relax also. Now you can carefully trim. The llama must know that you are confident and relaxed as you begin this procedure. You are the trainer - don't allow him to train you. John Mallon has a great article on nail trimming called "Pickin' 'Em Up and Puttin' 'Em Down".

QUESTION: I just recently noticed that my 7 year old llama (I've only owned for one year) has a hard bulge (egg size) in the buccal area - if a llama has a buccal area. Do llamas hold their cud here? The bulge seems to increase and decrease but is there most of the time. I never noticed this on my llama until recently. Should I worry about this? Otherwise he seems fine, eats OK, no droopy head, etc. Thanks. Barbara 

RE: I have seen several llamas and other species of animals do this. A swelling is seen in the "cheek" area that seems to come and go. The swelling is food material or regurgitated cud. This may be associated with a tooth abnormality, but more often than not is just particular to the individual llama and nothing to worry about. The buccal area is the correct term to use; it refers to the area of the mouth outside of the teeth but inside the oral cavity.
Sam D. Meisler, DVM
RE: In older llamas the cud-chewing motion of the jaw can cause the molars to wear unevenly, with the outer edges of the teeth becoming sharp and raised with respect to inner surface. This can interfere with the ability to chew cud. I've had some owners tell me a sign of this is a consistent lump of cud in the cheek. You might have a vet inspect your llama's teeth and, if necessary, "float" or grind them even. It's a common procedure. Be careful, that edge can really be sharp!
Regards, Susan

QUESTION: I was just wondering what the price range for llamas is nowadays. Thanks, Hanna

RE: Llama prices have come down from the outlandish prices they were about eight years ago. The prices now seem to be holding and they are affordable for a great many more families to enjoy. There are still some that are good show quality with good conformation that bring extremely good prices thus making raising llamas still a good investment. There is a wide range in today's prices depending on what you are purchasing. A gelded male usually sells for $500.00. Females can start at $1500.00 on the very low end - $3000 - $4000 is more average - and recent sales have brought highs in the $20,000's. A nice breeding male can be purchased young starting about $2500 and up to $15,000 for a very nice older male. Do your homework, know what you want to purchase, ask plenty of questions, and buy from a farm that you trust, has a written contract with everything spelled out, and complete medical records.

QUESTION: I have a suri-type fibered llama and would like some info on the correct way to groom since it has alot of crimp. Sue

RE: I would recommend trying to blow out as much debris as possible with a circuteer blower or something like it. Some even use a leaf blower. Then if you can't brush, it's just a matter of picking stuff out of the wool by hand or with a pick/comb. If you shampoo the animal, apply conditioner and let drip dry. Do not blow dry if you want to keep the crimp. But even if you blow or brush out the crimp, it will return in a few days - especially with humidity.

QUESTION: How much fiber does a llama produce from a shearing? Chris

RE: It would depend on the type of cut you are giving the llama, the type of llama, and also the llama's age. If it is the first shearing, a barrel cut, and the llama is long woolled and about two years old, I would approximate two pounds and about one to one and a half pounds annually after that. If it is a short woolled animal, the amount would be less. And if it was a total body shearing, of course the total amount would be more.

QUESTION: Does anyone know the chemical content of llama beans? Gardening friends are asking this question when they take the manure for their gardens. Donald

RE: It's reported to be 1 nitrogen, 1.5 phosphorus, and 1 potassium, when dried.

QUESTION: Please help! I have a female alpaca who had a cria one week ago.It was questionable whether the baby got enough colostrum so I had an igg done which came back 650. The cria seems active etc. Today I noticed that the mommy had something hanging from her vulva. I watched and it dropped. It seems like a small piece of pink tissue. At first I thought it might be discharge. Is this unusual?? It is not her first cria and the birth seemed like a fairly easy one. PLEASE comment... Thank you, Layla 

RE: I imagine you're right in assuming you are seeing a slight discharge from your female following the birth of her cria. That wouldn't be abnormal as long as it is slight. And I compliment you on your choice to do an IgG on your new cria. So many owners do not choose to do this important test. A result of 650 is just a little low though and you might consult with your veterinarian about doing a plasma transfer just to insure your cria has an adequate passive transfer of immunity. Even though the cria is active and gaining weight, he would still be susceptible to any strange bacteria that he may be subjected to without a proper immune system.

QUESTION: We have a 5 year old female llama with what we think is megaeosophagus. Does any one out there have any experience with this? How can it be treated if at all and what is the prognosis? This animal has been showing symptoms for a long time and is losing weight. She frequently has a nasal and oral discharge that is thick, sometimes, opaque in color rather than clear, sometimes bloody and often has food and/or grain matter in it. We would like to treat her if possible.
Thanks, Jo Ann Close, Verdura Farm 

RE: Unfortunately, there are no specific treatments. Mostly what can be done is management.....helping the llama to cope with the disease and hopefully prolonging their life. Feeding the llama on an incline, working with different types of feed to see which is best tolerated, and to see which ones help to increase or at least maintain the llama's weight, along with the use of antibiotics to help with any aspiration type pneumonia's that go along with the disease are the main things one can do for a llama with mega-e. The symptoms you mentioned are typical. A continual "burping" up of the cud..where the bolus goes up and down the one side of the neck, sometimes drooling or foaming at the mouth, sometimes increased episodes of choking on feed, nasal discharges ranging from white to green with feed particles evident, sometimes an elevated temperature due to aspiration pneumonias, weight loss, eventual bloating, continued nerve degeneration of the esophagus, etc. Most times, the llamas either show signs of the disease at an early age..around 18 months to two years, or at mid life around 5-6 years of age. In dogs, the early appearance is usually believed to indicate a congenital condition, whereas onset later in life is believed to be due to a trauma or possibly a viral infection..although there are many different possible causes for megaesophagus. And, I just spoke with a woman who has three generations of mega-e. in her llamas all of which showed up later in life. Mega-e is a difficult disease to watch progress...I wish you the very best.Chris Armstrong, Blue Moon Llamas

QUESTION: Hello. Could you please let me know the recommended dosage of Ivermec, for prevention of Meningeal Worm. We are located in an area with many white tail deer, and we follow a very strict worming schedule April thru Nov. The problem is everyone from vets to breeders have a different dosage to be used. Differences as 1cc per llama to 3cc's per llama. I want to keep them safe, but don't want to overdose them on Ivermec. Please let me know your opinion. Thanks, Susan

RE: Dosages for ivermectin will vary according to the weight of the individual animal. A good recommendation for protection on Meningeal Worm is given by Dr. Anderson of Ohio State University. See ParasiteControl

QUESTION: I have four llamas we use for packing. Two are in great shape, one we just purchased is underweight (and we're working on putting weight on him) and one is overweight. He weighs 520 pounds!!! We feed all of them the same. In the winter, we fed them 3/4 cups of grain per day plus grass hay. In the summer, we let them graze out in the pasture which is FULL of grass. How can we put one llama on a diet without isolating him from the others? Thank you! Kimberly

RE: You can't really put him on a diet without some isolation. He still needs his llama grain for his vitamins and minerals, but you'll probably have to limit his pasture time out on that good grass! And he doesn't need hay now either. Exercise will help also. It's not easy to take weight off, but with your help, he'll be a healthier animal.

QUESTION: Hi. I love your web page. We are getting ready to cut the hay and it appears there are more ferns in the hay than before. We have cut this hay and fed it to our llamas, donkeys, goats, and horses for the last three years. Since there seemed to be more ferns than normal I decided to check into it and I see on your web site that "bracken fern" is poisonous. The guy who cuts the hay says this fern is not harmful to horses. Do you know if there is more than one kind of fern? We are trying to get it all pulled out before the hay is cut, but it is a big field and I'm afraid we'll miss some. I'm sure there has been some in the past - and so far it hasn't affected any of the animals. Thanks for any advise you can give.Amy

RE: Appreciate your concerns about various plants in your pastures and hay. Since so many varieties of plants vary in different regions of the country, the safest thing for you to do is to take a sample of this plant in to your county extension agent and let them properly identify it for you. Even if they haven't had experience with llamas, they can probably tell you if it is harmful to other species and the llama usually falls into that category also. And sometimes a plant will be listed as toxic but it takes quite alot of it to show harmful signs. And others are toxic with just the slightest sample. Better to be on the safe side and have it checked.

QUESTION: Two of my young girls, one who is three and the other who is two years old, both lost a front tooth while mating. Both of these girls like to fight. This happened about four months ago. Now I've noticed that new teeth are coming in! Is this common to get new teeth? I was thinking they only got one set of teeth. Can I expect all of their front teeth to eventually be replaced? Thanks, Dave

RE: Yes, llamas do lose their first "baby teeth" and get permanent teeth. Sometimes the "baby teeth" will not get pushed out and you'll notice a double set that will need some attention from your vet.

QUESTION: Hi! I am considering the purchase of two male Llamas. We have four acres of pasture for them to graze on. My question is: can Llamas be on pasture grass year around, even when the grass is richer in protein. My donkey foundered last year from eating the rich grass, so I don't want to have sick Llamas due to the rich grass. Thank you for your help. Gloryranch

RE: Yes, llamas can be on pasture year round - if you're lucky to have grass grow in your area year round. Most owners have to supplement with grass hay during the winter months. Llamas can have free pasture and will not get sick even when it is just starting to grow and is rich and green. They may get a ploppy stools for awhile though.

QUESTION: I have a question on training llamas. We have 6 pens in our barn and our llamas have decided that 2 of them make a good bathroom. The llamas are fed their pellets in these pens daily, yet they insist on going in the same areas. The other 4 pens are kept clean. The 2 pens they go in are continually cleaned out. We have a sand base throughout the barn, and some straw in each pen. I have dug down and removed the contaminated sand, replaced it with clean sand and clean straw on top. They still continue to go in these pens. I locked them out of the pens on nice days, but when it is cold or windy I let them in, and they go inside again. They have a pile of droppings outside the barn, but still insist on inside. Does anyone have any suggestions of what I can do to stop them from messing in the barn? pc user

RE: Unfortunately, most llamas do mess in the barn .... at least occasionally. Instead of trying to stop this behavior, how about trying to designate one area for them to use? We marked a corner area off with 2x4's, added a little manure to give them the idea, and now they use this area as their "bathroom". Rarely do they miss. Almost like a cat's litter box. And rarely do we put straw down in the barn. Our llamas seem to think that the straw is giving them permission to mess everywhere!

QUESTION: I NEED HELP! Three times a week I travel In the Great Smoky Mountain National Park with 7 llamas taking supplies to a back country lodge. Rhododendron has always been a problem for the llamas because of its toxic nature. Occasionally the Llamas will eat Rhododendron on the trail. My question is...., is there a product that I can buy (such as a muzzle, netting, screen....) or a product that you would recommend to keep the llamas from eating while on the trail. Any suggestion will be greatly appreciated.Monty

RE: I have seen a muzzle designed for llamas just for this purpose! You can get more information by contacting justmorgan

QUESTION: My father raises registered Paso Fino horses. He also has a young, 18 month old llama. For some reason, the llama eats the horses manes, if he pastures them together. He has friends that have horses and llamas together with no problems. Could it be that something in his diet is lacking? He gets about 1/2 coffee can of pellets, and a small slab of hay, morning and evening. I look forward to your advise. Dan

RE: It is doubtful that this behavior can be attributed to a lack of something in his diet. What possibly comes to mind is his age. Young male llamas like to "boy play" together and part of that is neck and leg biting. Some of this behavior may be practice for future breeding also. Male llamas are very often trying to breed at 18 months although most of them are not fertile until two years or more. I'm assuming your llama is not gelded yet. It is most often advised (due to various possible growth problems) to wait until they are about two years old to geld them if management is not a problem. However, if necessary, they can be safely gelded at 18 months. Your llama diet sounds good - about one pound of llama pellets a day and good grass hay. Does he get any free choice mineral supplement? My guess would be that he is just a somewhat bored growing boy. Have you considered getting another llama for a companion? He would really enjoy that and it would probably stop him from bothering your horses.

QUESTION: Can non-gelded males stay together with gelded males??? My three llamas are not gelded yet and one of them I would like to possibly keep intact. Again, thanks a bunch for everything. Kathy

RE: Yes, alot of farms even run a number of intact males together. It is alot easier if they are brought up together from a young age, but you can still put males together at later dates. You just have to have the perseverance to keep them together, overlook the screaming and chasing, and let them fight it out for themselves. And, of course, they should all be checked carefully and often for their fighting teeth and have them removed as soon as they are of a dangerous size.

QUESTION: I have a nine month old male who was running with an adult male gelding in my front fields. About a month ago we checked his weight and he had lost 14 lbs. We brought them both over closer to the house to keep a closer look at them. We have tried to entice him to eat grain but he just pecks at it. Once in a great while he might eat as much as 1/2 pound, but it's rare. We have tried steamed crimped corn, but no luck. He will eat alfalfa, but not a whole lot. He does eat grass, although it's the wrong time of year for that. He also eats hay. He is current on all his shots and has been dewormed as of December 15th. He is energetic, pronging and running around doing neck twists etc. But of course he should be gaining weight not losing it. Also, when we first brought him over he gained 3 lbs. in a week, but then the following week lost 5 lbs. We are going to try sweetened crimped oats, but he just doesn't appear to be interested in supplements to grass or hay. Feeling his backbone or on his chest it feels a little taut. Not flabby and not bony, but thin. The adult gelding he is running with is healthy and if anything overweight a little. They get along very well. I have heard that failure to thrive strikes between 6 and 9 months. I don't know what else it could be. I'm afriad we're going to lose him. He's extremely friendly but did bond with the herd early on. Please, any suggestions at all will help. My vet is very familiar with llamas but this one has us stumped. We live near Fayetteville, Arkansas, in the Ozark mtns. Hal

RE: As you know, a nine month old youngster is not going to have the same amount of weight gain weekly as does a young cria, but it is unusual for him to be losing weight. As far as his diet, you may offer him some calf manna with his grain and also add a couple of tablespoons of Lixotinic to his food. This is a vitamin/iron supplement that will enhance what he is getting - somewhat expensive. Sounds like it is time for some blood tests to dig a little deeper. How's his IgG? After you get the results, your vet may want to consult with Dr. Norm Evans also in the midwest - in Kentucky. His practice is dedicated totally to camelids and he has alot of experience. Failure To Thrive is rather hard to determine - we always keep searching for another answer that can be treated such as a digestive problem or thyroid.

QUESTION: I will be getting three one-year old male llamas this weekend. One in particular has an extraordinarily beautiful white coat. What is the best way to keep them looking good and not have them get really matted and "ratty" looking? Thanks. Kathy

RE: Gentle grooming, with a boar bristle brush and a spray detangler, on a regular basis will keep them looking nice and keep their fibers separated for air circulation. This is especially helpful in the summer months so perspiration can evaporate. Short grooming sessions also help them to be more handable all over their body.

QUESTION: We just purchased a female llama that was due to have a baby in Feb. Well, she had it this morning, December 114, and it was born dead. I need to know how long before she should be bred back? And what is the gestation period? Thank you. Jackie

RE: If it was a pre-mature birth, not caused by an infection, you can probably breed back safely as you would normally - on the 12th-14th or 21st day. If you suspect there might be an infection, it would be best to have her checked and cultured by your vet. Is this the female's first cria? Some females just have pre-mature births consistently, time after time, and you may have to give her something to hold her pregnancy. Actually, this is not a good breeding trait to be passed on. If you just purchased her, the sellers should have informed you of any past history of pre-mature births on the part of her dam or her. Also, a pre-mature birth could possibly be caused by some stress. Did you just move her to a new farm? Or did you just give her a vaccination or de-worming? The normal gestation period is 11 1/2 months or 350 days. Most arrive between 345 and 355 days.

QUESTION: Hi. We recently purchased our first llamas and I have a question about the area we are going to put the llamas in. Part of our three acres was woods and we cleared a large part of it for them. We left the large trees for shade in the summer and the ground is a soft mulch like substance from years of falling leaves and such. Much like a deer would have to walk on in the woods I suspect. I am wondering if they will find enough to eat on what is growing there, or will I need to supplement their diet with hay year round? And will all the fallen leaves be a problem each year or will they only eat what is best and leave the rest? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks G. Conrad

RE: I'm sure your llamas will like their woods - especially the shade in the summer. They will enjoy the leaves and munch on them as they desire. However, I think they will need some pasture with growing grasses in the summer or you probably should supplement them with hay year round. A pound of a good, balanced llama supplement daily, fed all year, will round out their vitamin and mineral needs also.

QUESTION: When should a baby llama be weaned? Have one now that is 4 months old. Need help ASAP. Since it's difficult to be on the web for me, what is the best all around book to be bought that would answer or give further resources about the care of llamas? Patti 

RE: Crias are usually weaned around the age of six months. This should be planned around the weather since it is not good to wean and induce additional stress on them in hot weather. Some crias should be weaned a little earlier if the mom is showing weight loss due to the nursing cria. And some breeders do not wean at all. They let the mother do it herself when she is ready - usually when the cria is around 7-9 months of age. One of our favorite books is Caring For Llamas, A Health & Management Guide by Clare Hoffman, D.V.M.

QUESTION: In regards to the meningeal worm... shall llamas be treated year round for the parasite in cold weather climes, or does a hard freeze break the cycle. Pam 

RE: If you are in an area with a high population of white tail deer, you may want to treat your llamas monthly, with Ivomec from Spring through December or until a hard freeze. This is a preventative for Meningeal Worm ...not a treatment.

QUESTION: I have heard there is a certain vaccine which is required when llamas and horses are on the same farm. Is this true and what is the vaccine? What about dogs and llamas? Are there any diseases which my dog should be protected from relative to be around the llamas? Thanks. Kathy

RE: Many farms have both llamas and horses and no special vaccination is required. No diseases are passed on to dogs either.

QUESTION: I need a blow by blow discription of trimming toe nails. I am afraid of hurting the animals or getting kicked. Do you secure them in a stantion or just tie them up? The nail should be trimmed even with the bottom of the pad, this I know. Please e-mail me direct. Larry. You have a great web site!

RE: A better help would be a demonstration and "how to" from where you purchased your llamas. And also, trained llamas that would not kick when you attempt to pick up their feet would be a blessing. I can completely understand you not wanting to hurt them and also hesitant about getting kicked. We've all purchased untrained animals and then had to deal with the toenail trimming. A restraining chute is a help so you and/or the animal does not get hurt. If the animal is used to going into the chute for various reasons, even just a treat once in awhile, the chute becomes just another fixture on your farm. If they are well trained, you can just tie them up. Some new owners without a chute have used their trailers as a restraining area or also opened a gate back against the fence forming a "V" shaped corner to tie them in. As a result of giving many nail trimming demonstrations, I am a firm believer that your approach, self confidence, and mannerisms have alot to do with your success or struggles. Standing at the llama's side and facing toward the llama's tail, let the llama know what you intend to do by touching securly at the top of the leg and running your hand down slowly, but firmly (don't tickle), while giving him the command "foot". After he is relaxed with this, pick up the foot securely and lift it up bending in the normal direction that the leg usually goes - not out to the side. If the animal resists, keep hold so you are in control (and keep talking to him calmly and relax yourself) and llama will settle down and relax knowing you are not going to hurt him. Bending over alot and holding the leg low, just off the ground, and getting the leg relaxed in my hand before starting to cut, has worked better for me than trying to lift it high. Hold your nail trimmers parallel with the foot and cut the nail back even with the pad in 2-3 cuts, whatever is needed. Then cut across the point to blunt it. If cut too short, the nail will bleed a little. If bleeding persists, apply pressure and disinfect.

QUESTION: I have 2 llamas and reside in VA...Is the only way to worm the llamas is by injection or do they have a paste type of wormer? Which is the best? How often should I worm them? They are due in the next few days if every 6 weeks is appropriate. Thanks for any feed back. Robert 

RE: Deworming every six weeks is not necessary if you only have two llamas and if they have adequate pasture and clean living quarters. A suggested deworming schedule for this part of the country would be Injectible Ivermec (for cattle - give SQ) or Valbazen (a paste) given April 1; Valbazen around the middle of May; Valbazen October 1; and Ivermec December 1 or after the first freeze. Valbazen is very effective since it is a third generation wormer attacking the eggs, larvae, and adult parasites. It may also be mixed in with their food - some llamas don't mind at all. Ivermec is important especially for the prevention of Meningeal Worm. It is suggested to use more than one dewormer to cover the various parasites. There is more detail on this at Vet Corner under Dewroming, Parasites, Lice, Mites, and Meningeal Worm. Warning - do not deworm (or administer any medication) to pregnant females within 60 days of birthing or breeding.

QUESTION: Please help, I have two seven year old llamas. We've never had a problem with either one of them until now. One has become weaker by the day over the last week. I've had vets in, but no one seems to know much about llamas around here. He can barely get up and his hind legs seem extremely weak. He still eats okay although probably not as much as before. I've been giving him 1cc of injectable banamine a day for his pain, but it doesn't seem to help. Can a llama handle Penicillian? Maybe something bit him, but I haven't found any puncture wounds. No one seems to care around here and I'm afraid he is going down hill fast and I will lose him. Any ideas out there???? Thanks, Linda 

RE: You didn't say where you were located, but the first things that come to my mind are Meningeal Worm or Heat Stress. Since it probably isn't overly warm where you are at this time of year, my first thought is M-Worm. M-Worm is a parasite that gets into the spinal cord sometimes causing death. Staggering and weakness in the rear is a very common sign. It is usually spread by white tailed deer although it doesn't affect the deer. There is no way to determine for sure that M-Worm is present until a necropsy is done, so it is all guess work on the part of the vet. M-Worm is usually treated with large doses of injectible Ivomec. I'm sending more information to you on M-Worm. This information contains a preventative but not a treatment. If you suspect M-Worm, you or your vet, if not familiar with this parasite, should contact another llama vet for treatment. This is very serious and should be treated immediatelyh if this is suspected. It also could be an injury of the rear quarters or spine, but that would be hard to determine without an examination by a professional vet. When a llama gets entirely down, it's hard to turn the condition around. Keep trying to help him get up periodically and exercise the legs. Massage and stretch the legs or even rig up a sling to help him stand for short periods of time.

RE: Thank you so much for your help. Yes, the Meningeal Worm problem is the only thing I was able to find that sounded right also. This sounds exactly like what he is experiencing. We live in south Florida (no, it wasn't from the heat, they swim all the time and stay cool) so we don't have any white tail deer, but we brought some hay down from our farm in Michigan, so maybe somehow something got transferred to him. Anyway, I've given him the Ivermectin and daily doses of Banamine - not too great until I gave him some Oxy-Tetracycaline last night and this morning he actually was able to get up and walk around a little for himself. The vets here had me giving him far too small a dose of Banamine too so that might have helped him today. I finally found a vet here who is into llamas. The great thing is that he was able to stand up for 10 minutes by himself!!! Thank you again for your help. I printed the whole thing out to keep for reference. If you're ever in Boca Raton please do stop by the Todd Warner Studio and see our whimsical llama sculptures. You'll understand why I felt so sorry for him. Linda

RE:You probably have pinpointed the problem! Since the larvae of this parasite is passed in the deer's feces and then spread by ground snails, it is a very good possibility that you have transferred some snails with larvae in your hay from Michigan. There is a large white tail deer population in Michigan.

QUESTION: E-coli bacteria has been traced to animal manure. Is this a concern when fertilizing with llama 'poop'? Hawk

RE: The bacteria in llama feces are generally not harmful to humans. However, llamas (and other vertebrates) can at times shed bacteria in their feces that are pathogenic for humans. Thus, the feces of llamas (and other vertebrates) should always be considered to contain pathogenic organisms. There are 2 steps that gardeners can take to minimize the possibility of human infections resulting from the use of manure as a fertilizer. The heat from a properly composted manure pile will destroy pathogens. Also, all vegetables from a garden in which manure was used should be washed well, especially those that grow in or on the ground. The bacterium, E. coli, has been in the news a lot because of the severe disease it can cause in young children, the elderly, immunocompromised, etc. E. coli is a normal inhabitant of the gut of all vertebrates and is usually not pathogenic. There are a few strains, e.g. E. coli O157:H7, however, which are highly pathogenic for humans. These are the ones that get all of the attention. I am not aware of this strain being isolated from llamas, but there is no reason to think that it does not occur in that species. Bob Teclaw, DVM

QUESTION: How much pasture space do llamas need (per llama)?Rita 

RE: It is said that you can put 3-4 llamas per one acre of pasture. Some farms do have more per acre, but it probably would mean supplementing with hay. Also, a very good pasture cleaning schedule would be in order since crowded pastures can result in problems with parasites. Actually, since llamas are browsers in their native home in the mountains of South America, the lush pastures that they encounter around here are quite a treat. Also the reason for alot of overweight animals. 

QUESTION: Say, I just bought a "bargain-basement" llama and other than needing a good shearing and bath, he seems to have a problem with his front lower teeth. They stick out and his upper lip closes behind them. He doesn't appear to have a problem eating (hay or grain) - it just looks kind of funny.
Should I be worried? Anything I can do? I didn't buy him to be a show animal and if I can work with him to become halter trained that's great - so I'm not worried other than for his health. Tim

RE: Some llamas lower teeth do grow to be quite protruding as they grow older and they can interfere with his eating. A vet can trim those front teeth and he probably will be more adept at his browsing abilities, however it may not be absolutely necessary that you do this. Your vet can better advise you upon an examination.

QUESTION: Thank you for the great web site! My question is as follows:
We purchased a pregnant female llama in Oct. 2001. Her due date is April 20, 2002. The sellers shot records indicate she was vaccinated Oct 6 with CD/T and given Ivomec Plus (orally). Should/can I give her a booster of CD/T before her due date? Should she be given the Ivomec before her due date? If so, when? Thank you in advance for your help with these questions. Tarre Ann.

RE: What our vet recommends - We give a booster CD/T 60 days before their delivery date to hopefully boost the passive transfer of the immune system. (This can be checked with an IgG at 24 hrs. of age). We also give a de-worming at that time - most likely 3 cc Ivermec injected IM. We have been advised that Injectible Ivermectin (Cattle) is most effective. Do not give any type of medication closer than 60 days to their birthing date. (or within 60 days after breeding also). So, your best time for this CD/T pre-delivery booster would be around Feb. 20, 2002.

QUESTION: A friend told us that there was a tax advantage to owning a llama farm Do you know anything about this? Is there any difference in llama farming and regular livestock farm production as far as tax purposes? Thanks for any information you may have. Marian.

RE: If raising llamas or any other livestock is a true business, there are certain tax deductions. Raising any animal as a hobby does not offer any tax advantages.

QUESTION: My main breeding female suffered a uterine prolapse after her last cria. The cria was fine and the mother seems to have recovered well. Prior to this, she had four safe pregnancies. The vet in my area could not tell me a lot about the seriousness of this condition in llamas. I did not breed her last year. Can you please tell me if it is safe to breed her again? Is she likely to have problems again or should I try her one more time? Any information is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Donna.

RE: If her prolapse was treated properly at the time, the uterus should be in a secure position and without infection. You've waited a substantial amount of time and it should be safe to re-breed her again. Many llamas have suffered a uterine prolapse and go on to have normal deliveries in the future.

QUESTION: I aguired a female who is pregnant and due first part of the year. She seems to have alot of gas. Is this normal? Thank You. Toni.

RE: That's pretty normal from what I've observed. Especially when the girls start getting large and tight in the abdomen and then turn around to scratch their rear legs. Or sometimes even when they're spitting at a pasture-mate.